12 April 2006

Quintessentially Japan

三年ぶりの日本。It is always a treat to be in Japan, especially after 3 long years. It was nostalgic and refreshing to observe many quintessential Japanese traits / objects / phenomena. In particular, 3 years had almost made me forget...

  • How polite Japanese service is. When at the airport, the luggage attendants along the stretch of road ALL bowed in appreciation for your patronage as the limousine bus left. When in the train, people take very seriously the sign that says "Please refrain from using cellphone as they disturb other passengers". When shopping, every shop attendant greets you with an enthusiastic, genki-na "Irasshaimase!".

  • How beautifully delicate Japanese cuisine is. I love warabi mochi and sakura mochi. Drool... I wonder if Meidi-ya here in Singapore has any? Did I also mention the sashimi which is pretending to be sushi? The portion is so generous that you can't see the rice:

    sushi tappuri

    sushi tappuri

    ...Or the tofu feast we had where the soya milk shabu shabu had me almost drinking from the pot and the tofu siew mai was so incredibly meat-like that I wouldn't have minded turning vegetarian... Slurp again.

  • How fun Japanese English is! You've gotta love "Breastopia" (name of a mobile clinic to encourage women to have their first mammogram) and the sign on top of my tap that says "Good to drink" :)

  • How omnipotent Japanese vending machines are. They even dispenses hot coffee in cans now! Oh, and I also like how you get little nubs of half-and-half with your coffee rather than bleh weak milk.

  • How exciting it is to shop in Japan. Heater-equipped eyelash curler, charcoal-infused pore pack, blotters where the oil doesn't transfer to the other side of the paper, long wallets for men...

  • How space-tight Japan is. My Tokyo hotel room is surely the tiiiniest one I have ever been in... It is even smaller than the Parisian hostel I was in! (Actually, only the bathroom that was tiny in that place; the rest of it was actually spacious.) But in their typical space-efficient fashion, the Japanese have managed to squeeze a fridge, a double bed and even a bathtub. Whoa.

  • How pampering Japan is. A heated toilet seat is the BEST thing ever invented for sub-10 degree temperatures. Absolutely no argument about this.

11 April 2006

O-hanami お花見

満開してくれて、本当にありがとうございました!

--平成18年4月9日

______sakura street

______sakura tree__sakura branch

______sakura closeup

______sakura jinja__sakura branch

______________sakura jo

09 April 2006

What is it about children that gives us hope?

Hope is a strange thing.

They say that of faith, hope and love, love is the greatest.

I say hope is the greatest. Hope is the undying belief that good things - like faith, like love - will come. Truly, what would life be without hope?

Seeing a park full of happy children on a day of blooming sakura, one cannot help but feel Hope.

Hope with a capital H!

______ hope and children
____________Hayato niko

28 March 2006

Kobe, Kanae and Hayato

I have been wanting to put up cute little Hayato's pictures but never found a good pretext. Now there is one - it's spring and I am going to Japan! For work yes, but I am going to swing by Kobe to see Kanae and Hayato.

楽しみみてる!

Curious Hayato

Bunny kissing Hayato

19 March 2006

The young woman and the old woman

Although countries are often congratulated for having rapidly modernized themselves into the league of developed nations, I have found two major downsides to rapid modernization that ought to be taken into account when determining the pace of development. The first is the noveau riche mentality. (Cf »my post on Bejing.) The second as I recently found out is the strain on mother-daughter relationships.

In an era long past and never to return, mothers and daughters led fairly similar lifestyle. Life urbanized quite slowly, at a pace acceptable to the general society. For a country that took a hundred years to double its GDP per capita, there were three generations of mothers to spread the change over. For a rapidly industrialized country however, there is all but one generation to bear the entire trauma of the change.

In an era long past and never to return, it was reasonable to adopt a yang er fang lao attitude and to expect your offspring to stay by your side. It was not likely that the education level and level of exposure of mothers and daughters differed as drastically as today. Today, we would find that in one generation, no woman had ever gone to college; but in the next, women are going for post-graduate degrees. In one generation, it took fifty-six years for the old woman to make her first Trans-Pacific flight; but in the next, it took nineteen for that first Trans-Pacific flight, then less than five subsequently for 100,000 miles to be travelled.

In an era long past and never to return, women were homely and time away from home meant stints in which one was reluctantly pulled out of the home nest for a greater cause like work. But in the current era, it is quite possible that the young woman relishes this time away and genuinely enjoys being a citizen of the world.

This entire burden of change rests on the single old woman (instead of the three in the past), who still expects her nestling to stay by her side. But the young woman flies and stays no more. Her heart still lies with the old woman, but that is not enough for her. Why is my daughter not happy to stay by my side when I was happy to stay by my mother’s, laments the old woman.

The young woman does not know how to explain to the old woman that the world has modernized too fast and placed too heavy a burden on her.

So she tells the old woman stoically and simply - in life, one can only look forward.

The past is an era long past and never to return.

10 March 2006

Say hello to my frog prince!

Crrroak
JAKARTA - I first saw my frog prince in the Vientiane airport two months ago but was too cheapo to pay US$8 for it. Since then I have been thinking about it and trying to look for it in vain.

At last, I found it in Jakarta this time. Kudos to our Indonesian colleague Ms D!

P.S. My frog prince crrroaks when you roll the wooden stick over the ridges on its back! And depending whether you use the fatter or thinner end of the stick, my frog prince changes from a young frog to an old frog. I was so taken in by it because when I was in Japan, there was a frog who was stuck in the pipe of my dorm and it would croak all night. The croaks of this wooden frog prince really reminded me of that pipe frog :)

09 March 2006

Jakarta undercurrents

This is my 3rd time to Jakarta but probably the first time that I enjoyed it. For the past two times, Jakarta was the boring, chaotic city which I didn’t look forward to because, in my own words, “There is nothing to do in Jakarta”.

To a very large extent, this is true. When I thought of Jakarta before this trip, only a crepe restaurant, a fusion restaurant (Koi) and the amazingly affordable hair treatment stood out in my mind. There are no world-class museums, no orchestras, no Arc de Triomphe, no Bangkok shopping finds. (Okay, there are some cheap Polo and bra buys, but those are about it.) Jakarta is not a walking city at all and the bad traffic inspires lethargy on even the most enthusiastic of visitors.

But in its own ways, Jakarta is alive. Only that it does not reveal itself easily to outsiders the way Paris or Rome does; it takes an insider to link you up to the undercurrents of Jakarta.

Perhaps it is significant that this time that I was in Jakarta, I had the fortune to be taken around by two local Indonesians. Feisty Ms D had driven us around yesterday, and we were fascinated by the modern designs* of bars and restaurants in Kemang amidst the impossible Jakarta traffic. Then today, Ms W brought us to F Bar and introduced us to the excellent band, One Vision. Although they were mainly doing covers, the quality of their voices was very impressive. Somehow, noted Ms W, Indonesians are endowed with deep mellow voices the way blacks are. She also commented that the Indonesia Idol is a lot better than the Singapore Idol. Gyrating to the tunes by One Vision, Ms M and I couldn’t help but agree.

One hour into the good music, I started to think that perhaps, famous bands are more the product of good packaging than anything else. Which is to say that Indonesian bands like One Vision could well have the potential to be as famous as Black Eye Pea. They are already a natural; I really liked how they mingled and chatted with the audience afterwards without any airs. With the proper packaging – good PR management etc, they are surely ready to break out into the world with hits of their own. By then, Ms D’s Japanese girl friends would no longer have to beg her to send them CDs of Indonesian bands.

Live music. At the end of the night, I realized that that is the part I relished the most about Jakarta – it is just so easy to find live music in Jakarta. (My hotel even has a pianist-singer in the afternoon.)

Where labour is cheap, music abounds. That unfortunately is the harsh truth, isn’t it?


* Mr L would say that the unfortunate thing about Jakarta is that the design is great but more often than not, the food does not match up at all. I had to agree for the Italian restaurant that Mr L brought us to the other time.

Sensory overload

JAKARTA - I looove the sensation but I always feel quite guilty when I ask for this:

“Hair spa and foot reflesi please.”

Jakarta is probably the only place where for US$6, you can have twenty fingers massaging you at the same time – ten for your head and ten for your feet. The first time I had this hour-long treat, I must admit I was very confused by the sensory overload. Just where should I be feeling? Ooo ooo, the head, the head. That feels good. One second later, the foot... The foot feels so good. And ahh, I can feel the stress being taken out of my skull now. Then ouch! That’s an accupoint there on my toe!

The net result of this sensory overload is that I have to shut my eyes in the hour or so I am at the hair salon. Both in comfort and in the attempt to shut off any other channel of sensory inputs to my overloaded brain.

Sometimes I wonder if Karl Marx is turning in his grave to know that two proletariats are serving one capitalist exploiter of labour. And more so, if he knows that the proletariats are probably earning only 10% of the miniscule sum paid by the capitalist…

25 February 2006

Every painting has its vicissitudes

I have decided to date this entry 25 Feb 2006 because it was the day I finished reading “The Lost Painting” and wanted to write about it. Some complications had delayed my initial encounter with the book, but as soon as that was settled, I finished reading it within a week.

The lost painting in question was “The Taking of Christ” by Caravaggio. Prior to reading the book, I have not heard of Carravagio, nor did the reproduction of the painting particularly intrigued me initially. But the book was a gift and my initiation into art history in high school has lasted me till this day, so I was quite eager to start reading it.

Perhaps because I identified with the fact that I was reading a book rather than admiring a painting, I did not notice much about the reproduction of the painting on the back cover of the book. It was only later when the book mentioned how Caravaggio was renowned for his startling use of light and shadow that I noticed his finesse at manipulating light to illuminate the expressions on his figures:

Taking of ChristLight, light, light. It is all about light in art isn’t it? (Cf my other entries on the Lourve and Epernay.)

Meanwhile, I was more absorbed in how the identity of the painting was pieced together using both traditional methods (ploughing through the Mattei family archives) and modern methods (using chromatography to determine if the paint coincided with that in other Carravagios, X-rays to detect the pentimenti etc). Some 200 pages into the book, I realized that such combination of traditional and modern methods mirrored those in archaeology as well – which is to say, art historians and archaeologists actually have much in common. Funny it doesn’t seem such a revelation anymore now that I have realized it, but I have never thought of linking the two that way. In any case, I was happy to see the grand divide between art and science once again being narrowed, the way it should be. (The first time I encountered the blurring of art and science was, I believe, at a Machu Picchu exhibition at Yale. I remember being fascinated by how the staple diet of the Incas was deduced using carbon dating.) It is unfortunate that the world has a knack of dichotomizing people and subjects into art versus science. What was that debate topic I had once before? “Labels are only for jars”.
φ

Reading about Francesca’s foray into the Mattei family archives, it occurred to me that Francesca’s unborn great-granddaughter would have a much harder time should she choose to be an art historian or a biographer in this era of electronic archives and fragile hard disks. Besides, the delete button is too easy to click, too accessible by the impulse of anger… And then, too irrevocable. (Of course one can also tear up or burn letters, but the concept of destruction seems more imbued in the physical act of tearing or burning that people tend to hesitate a few more seconds before doing so than in clicking an innocuous-looking delete button.)

Even with the delete button aside, think about how incomplete an account of Virginia Woolf’s life would have been had her biographer no access to her letters, or how the mysteries surrounding Sylvia Plath and Ted Hughes would have remained mysteries forever because there would be no final archive to open in 2020. Think about how if one of us suddenly dies, one’s email account and hard disk - on which so much of modern life resides - would be accessible to no one, and then with 3 or 6 months of account inactivity in the case of the email account, be irrevocably deleted… It seems to be me therefore, that it is just as important to appoint an executor-protector for one’s electronic estate in a will. This executor-protector is quite likely to be a different person from the one who executes the division of your financial assets which requires quite a different set of qualities. This executor-protector is the one to whom you can trust Yahoo or Gmail to release your email password upon your death, the one whom you can trust with your uninhibited electronic life story, the one who has the discretion as to know which letters should be shared or published, and which should be carried with secrecy to the grave.
φ

On the day I finished reading “The Lost Painting”, I also happened to watch “The Red Violin”. It was quite fortuitous that this was the combination because one could see the parallels between the vicissitudes of a lost painting and that of a lost violin. Like the lost Carravaggio, the red violin was also Italian in birth. (To be exact, it was Cremona, the birthplace of many a great string.) The film traces the violin’s enigmatic creation and subsequent journey from an 18th century Austrian monastery, to gypsies who raided it from a tomb, to 19th century Oxford, to China during the Cultural Revolution, and then finally to an auction house in Montreal.

That night, I came a step closer to understanding why people collect antiques. It seem to me that it is so much the object itself that people collect, but rather the lives behind them. It is a way, perhaps the only way, of living vicariously the centuries that one could not have lived. No single person can outlive the violin and it is in this sense that I thought was it quite appropriate to name the violin as the leading character of the film.

I am not an antique person at all, but I think I am slowly coming to understand it. To me, it is always a delicate balance between the allure of living vicariously and becoming attached to history. Appreciating the past without attachment takes conscious effort. It is often an easier, albeit sometimes perilous, rule of thumb in life to just look ahead.

On this Sunday afternoon, maybe I will go dig up the only antique-like thing I own – an old bond certificate for the Panama Canal…

17 February 2006

Emails lost in oblivion

If anyone has been sending emails to my Yale email address in the recent 6 weeks and not getting a response, this is why...

Hi. This is the qmail-send program at yahoo.com.
I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following addresses. This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.

67.28.113.19 failed after I sent the message.
Remote host said: 554 delivery error: dd This user doesn't have a yahoo.com account (joanne.lim@yahoo.com) [0] - mta258.mail.re2.yahoo.com

--- Below this line is a copy of the message.
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2006 16:38:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Joanne
Subject: wrong email forwarding address
To: joanne.lim@yahoo.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Hi Joanne,

I am also another Joanne Lim and I have an email forwarding service under my Yale alumni. I had accidentally typed your address to forward to instead of mine, so I think you have been getting some of my emails these 6 weeks or so. I am very sorry about this and have just rectified the problem. Would you still have those emails? I believe there was one yesterday from Panama and possibly replies from some other people earlier on. Some of these could be quite important to me.

If you stilll have, I would really appreciate it if you can forward to me. But if you have deleted it, could you tell me the content of the emails if you still recall the gist of them?

I'm really sorry about this and for spamming your inbox with my wrongly forwarded emails. Thanks in advance and hope to hear from you soon.

Cheers,
Joanne

15 February 2006

Moon over night safari

I forgot how much I enjoy the night safari.

There was a time when I was there thrice in two months because we kept having negotiators from out of town... That was a bit of an overdose, I admit. And I swear the lone bear who lives with the porcupine recognised me when I was there that often: it gave me a big fat yawn the third time I was there.

But since we haven't been having that many negotiations in Singapore these days, I was quite happy to be back at the safari again.

Except we had an uninvited friend this time however. It also gave us a big yawn, but this yawn was less endearing than the bear's. One of the Peruvians found it lounging beside him and thought it was a piece of string. I saw him fling it further away from him. Then ensued a debate within the tram carriage:

"Was that a snake?"

"What?!"

"No, a string."

"No, it's a snake."

So it vacillated between "No, snake" and "No, string" for a while until we finally saw our friend rear its bright green head. In a moment of eureka, a triumphant voice declared, "It's a snake."

The result of the triumphant declaration was that a few people jumped off the tram, myself included. I like nature, but not quite so up close and personal. Ms L, who was famously afraid of birds and chickens, peered curiously at Ms Snake in her bright green leotards.

"Look, it is actually quite cute."

"Okay..."

Meanwhile, a crowd of zookeepers had come rushing by. When they saw the snake, they let out an anti-climatic "Ohhhh" and replied nonchalently, "This is just a tree snake. Very common. Harmless." Then they all stood around to look at it like it is some long lost friend.

"Erm, yes, it's common, but aren't you going to do anything about it?" That was me.

So poor Ms Snake got flicked out of the tram by a walkie-talkie antennae, while the rest of us got ushered into the tram again. The initial nervousness of finding another uninvited friend subsided some as the tram purred into the foliage of the night.

The night air was a little humid from the afternoon rain, but the solitude a joy. The green smell of the jungle was now starting gliding elegantly past our noses. How refreshing, the scent of grass and earth. But I could already hear the Singaporean men groaning silently - NS*. Funny how the same smell can bring on such different olfactory memories.

The tram approached the giraffe enclosure. This was my absolute favourite place in the safari. Not the giraffe enclosure, but the lookout spot beside it. It was a picture of serenity, overlooking the reservoir with the most gorgeous colour of the sky. Today, the scene was resplendent with a yellow full moon over a red night. It was the perfect jingjing** backdrop!

Elsewhere, the elephants are frolicking away. To put it less euphemistically, they are mounting each other in open sight, to the giggly gasps of its shyer but no less interested human brethens.

It is a full moon after all. Give us a break man.


------------
*NS - National Service. The mandatory, potentially traumatic, military training that young Singaporean men have to go through for 2 years.
**jingjing - A file nickname for the Tang poem CD-ROM project I was involved 10 years ago with Ms T and others. I was working on Jing Ye Si by Li Bai, so I was constantly looking for different moons to use as the backdrop for long interpretative texts. The occupational hazardous result of this is that I can now no longer look at moons without thinking how wonderful they might look as jingjing backdrops...

27 January 2006

Snapshots of Vientiane

Was working too hard in Vientiane to look around or write this time :( Which was a shame because the weather was delightful (in the high teens and low twenties). It would have been nice to sip tea at a charming outdoor cafe and write...

Ms T: Yes, there are plenty of monks in Vientiane!

17 January 2006

The ring man of Jinah

ISLAMABAD - The young man had interesting jewellery on display. He spoke very little English and lapsed into Urdu at times, but we communicated with the help of gestures. I spotted an interesting ring and asked him for a price, and he kept saying, "Gift, gift". I thought he meant "Give, give" - as in "give a price" - but since I didn't know how to, I left it at that and continued looking at his jewellery.

When I saw another interesting ring, I asked for the price again. Again, the reply was "Gift, gift". I still assumed it was "Give, give", so this time, I decided to try my luck and plucked a number from the sky.

"One hundred."

Again, "Gift, gift."

I looked quizically at him and left it at that again. Meanwhile we chatted. I told him that I was from Singapore, was here for work, staying in hotel and leaving tomorrow. He told me his name was Izebel (sp?). He wanted to ask for my number and address, mentioning something about being friends. I smiled the most sincere I could manage, but shook my head. How do I convey that I am going away tomorrow, possibly never coming back, and just want this to remain a warm encounter between two human beings?

I was now prepared to buy one of the rings and asked once more for a price. I thought he would finally quote a price now that he didn't get my number. But he continued repeating, "Gift, gift." I insisted on paying.

Then he said firmly,

"No, not about pay. Friend."

At this point, to have continued insisting would be insulting to him and his kind gesture to a fellow human being. So I thanked him, many times over, and smiling the most grateful smile I could. He smiled back in return. I don't know if it was with disappointment, but if it was, I tried not to see it.

At this point, another customer came by and took his attention. With the ring on my right index finger, I said one last time of "thank you" and walked slowly away, bewilderedly touched by this act of kindness in a land as foreign as Islamabad.

Postscript: We had some time to go back to Jinah Supermarket on the last day. I had been feeling bad about taking a ring from someone who was probably trying to make ends meet, so I decided to buy something from Izebel. I picked out a pair of earrings and tried to pay him a customary Rp 100. At first, he refused and stuffed the money together with the earrings back into the paper bag, but I insisted. At long last he relented.

Impressions of Pakistan

ISLAMABAD - Being in Pakistan during this period of post-CIA-air-strike tension has been quite surreal. On the one hand, we are in this extravagant hotel with plush beds, clothes press machine (!) and complimentary mini-bar in our rooms, but on the other, scenes of protests and devastation loop on the 42" plasma TV and travel advisory alerts scream from my LAN-connected inbox:

"1. Travel to Pakistan should be for essential business reasons only."
-> Hmm... National interests at stake here, so I guess it must be "essential" enough.

"2. International SOS Members traveling to or currently in Pakistan at this time of heightened anti-US sentiment are advised to avoid American diplomatic missions and those of its allies, as well as US-brand commercial establishments. Minimize time spent in lobbies of buildings of multinational corporations or hotels. "
-> Okay, I agree. No McDonald's dinners for me while here, especially given that there was an attack on a McDonald's in Karachi a few months ago. But we are staying in Marriot and our meetings are held here all day long, so there is no chance of minimizing at all on the hotel front. On a sidenote, I must say that McDonald's does not seem to have a foothold here (thankfully). So far, I have only seen KFC and Pizza Hut and I am glad to announce that I have not had to resort to either yet.

On this last night of my stay in Islamabad, I can safely say that Pakistan in words or pictures have seemed much more dangerous, or exciting if you prefer, than my reality here. Of course, my reality is also a deceptively biased one. I shop at the biggest of the market areas, but not the market for the typical man on the streets. I see the clean lines of modern Islamic buildings (King Faisal Mosque below) but not the ghettos of the countryside.
Faisal backdrop Faisal afar Faisal close-up

That said, Islamabad is a well-planned and elegant city. Even with jet-lagged eyes and the darkness of night, I already like what I saw in my first hour while being whisked from the airport to the hotel. What is more impressive is that so far, I have seen no slums or beggars. Pakistanis are also quite mild by nature - they are not the pestering or aggressive sort - so it is quite a pleasant experience when bargaining. (I actually derive zero utility from bargaining, so I do it more as a formality to satisfy my Singaporean self.)

men wave woman waves
My biggest grouse is that the free-wandering soul in me is still not used to having to look for a male to accompany us when going out in the evening. (Post-script: Ms L, Ms O and I did progress to heading out as a trio on our last day - fun!) I usually poof at such advice, but here, I actually feel the need. 95% of the people out on the streets are men and some areas have no street lamps. The few women out are by far accompanied women. (This social norm is perhaps why the immigration counter at the airport has a special lane for 'Unaccompanied Women and Children'? We tried asking two of our Pakistani colleagues to confirm this but didn't get a proper reply.)

The other thing I have been left perplexed was the fact that at the Taxila museum, the staff approached us for pens. How unusual - pens! Unfortunately, I didn't have any spare ones with me then. Ms O mentioned that children approached her for the same thing too in Syria. We checked the prices of pens later on when we passed by a bookstore; they were not expensive. Did they want them as souvenirs or something? I am still perplexed, but will make a mental note to bring along pens along next time.
Food-wise, Pakistan has rather late dinners (9 pm) and its cuisine is quite meat-based. But we must give them the credit - they do their meats very well. Very tenderly roasted, and when coupled the indulgently fragrant US$1 briyani... Simply sedap!

Other memorable tidbits about Pakistan:
  • Vehicles have different honks from one another. And instead of rude monotonal beeps, Pakistani honks are usually short quick melodies, making it quite fun to listen out for them. Imagine - a symphony of honks in a traffic jam :) (But Islamabad is so sparsely populated for its land area that there is really no serious traffic jam.)
  • The knowledgeable bookshop attendants would recommend you books on their own initiative. What a delight! I was particularly impressed because the shop we were at looked like a nondescript neighbourhood bookstore from the outside. Upon their recommendation, I bought my first book of Urdu poetry. (Is Singapore going on the GEMS campaign? Bookstores should really take a leaf out of the Pakistan book.)
  • The very thorough body search at the airport is done by hand. I must confess that at the end of it, I felt like telling them, "Must pay money one leh...". But I will also say that poor the males in our team had a tougher time dealing with being frisked so thoroughly ;)
  • They use textbooks from Singapore. We saw them in a bookshop and my counterpart also attested to this.
  • Pakistan has very close ties with China. I thought this was anecdotal until I saw a Zhou Enlai Avenue... Alright, I get the point.
  • "Okay-maybe". I am still trying to understand what this phrase means. Is that a yes or a no...?
My impression of Islamabad would have remained rather dreary (mainly due to the weather) if not for the car ride in the beautiful weather of the last day which really set things right. The Himalayas in the horizon, the Margallah national park just minutes away, the silent yet impressive architecture of the Supreme Court and Parliament...

It has been a good initiation into South Asia.

14 January 2006

Of Greek gods alongside Asian Buddhas

TAXILA - A very interesting day at the ancient city of Taxila despite the slightly chilly weather. We visited 3 archaelogical sites - Dharmarajika (stupa / monastic buildings), Sirkap (city) and Jaulian (university-monastery).

I had no time at all to read up on Islamabad before this trip, so I didn't know that there was a World Heritage site - Taxila - right at the doorstep of the capital city until my colleagues told me. At the crossroads of three great trade routes linking the West with India and China, Taxila predated even Borobodur and had an illustrious history of being ruled by Persia, Alexander the Great, King Asoka, the Bactrian Greeks, before it was eventually destroyed by the Huns.



The Taxila museum contained an excellent collection of exacuvated archaelogical remains - beautiful Buddha statues, burnt birch bark manuscripts in Sanskrit, and artifacts like ladles, candle holders, toys etc. Unfortunately, photos were not allowed in the museum. I was really intrigued by the fact that European-looking Buddha statues were being found alongside with Greek gods such as Aphrodite. And when I saw the stupas, I was awed:

Holding up the Buddhist stupas at the bottom are... Atlases. What extraordinary intersection of cultures indeed!

10 January 2006

Hari Raya scrabble

How about a pat on the back for my first scrabble game in possibly 10 years, and against a hardcore Scrabble opponent at that? :)

One-Man Campaigns

Since coming back to Singapore some 30 months ago, I have been embarking on a few one-man campaigns. My generally libertarian stance means that I don’t go around persuading people to join my campaigns, so my one-man campaigns has remained just that – one man. But perhaps with the power of blogging and the internet, I may be able to swing you over as well.

My oldest campaign is the I-Don’t-Need-a-Bag campaign. Now, those who know me will know that my mum is the queen of plastic / paper bags. From supermarket to mooncake to shopping mall bags, we have it all at home. Did you say you need different sizes as well? We have each design in XS, S, M, ML, L, XL, XXL. Please take your pick. And oh, please don’t tell my mum or else she will make it her personal crusade to replenish those you took…

As you may expect, growing up in a small apartment amidst this vicious cycle and pile of bags has given me a phobia of them. Coupled with the knowledge that many of these will take decades to decompose in the landfills and/or emit toxic fumes when incinerated, I began my I-Don’t-Need-a-Bag campaign while I was in Madison. It was in Madison that I first saw people take the trouble to bring their own cloth grocery bags to supermarkets. I never quite got to that stage since my shopping are often spur-of-the-moment affairs, but it did make me start a personal campaign to tell cashiers whenever possible, “I don’t need a bag.”


I was heartened to see that NTUC has recently started a similar campaign as mine, but it appeared that the corporate message has not quite filtered down to the ground level - plastic bags are still liberally given out. I guess there is little incentive for the cashiers here to do otherwise, in a culture that still considers plastic bags an entitlement the supermarket owes to shoppers.

To extend the impact of my campaign, I took a bigger step a couple of months ago. I decided to keep a nicely-folded plastic bag in my work handbag since I usually buy toiletries and odd-and-ends after work. For this purpose, I have found Watson’s bag to be a good size.

My next step in expanding this campaign would be to find a viable alternative to disposable take-out containers when I want to eat in during lunchtime. Tiffin carriers come up as the most natural answers, but there are issues such as portion size and cool factor. Akan datang on this point.


On to my second campaign – the Have-a-Good-Day campaign. Again, this has its roots in my US days where it was common to hear cashiers wish you this cheerfully when you are done with your purchase. In the hope of hearing it one day as the common greeting of Singaporean cashiers, I decided to take the initiative and proactively wish it to cashiers first.

The results of this campaign are quite interesting. Most are caught by surprise but manage to break into a smile and return a “Same to you”. A few don’t say anything (I try to give them the benefit of the doubt that they don’t know what to reply), and even fewer manage to say “Have a good day” or similar before I say it. The latest one I remember was at Tao’s Cuisine at Paradiz Centre. Big kudos for that. I also have the impression that Robinson cashiers also have a greater knack of saying / responding to this greeting…


Finally, the third campaign - this one is not as feel-good as the other two and is going to be controversial. It is the I-Refuse-to-Support-Stunt-Based-Charity-Shows campaign.

I support charity work in my own small ways and I have absolutely nothing against fund-raising per se. But I do have opinions about how fund-raising should be done and I feel strongly that (1) making people risk life and limb and (2) using that to emotional blackmail the audience, is not the right way.

I know, supporters of such shows would say that no one can “make” anyone do anything, whether to risk life and limb or to donate. But we know that is not the case in reality. Peer / social pressure and externally imposed guilt trips are very much at play. Cf Foong Woei Wan’s article in ST Life today.

But my biggest problem with stunt-based charity shows is that it is a downward spiral. It is a method that encourages man’s weakness for the sensational, and worse, blatantly milks it, leading to ever wilder stunts in future charity shows.

The other ST reporter says that since man loves drama, loves the sensational anyway (his example was to why people slow down to look at car accidents), we should accept this as a fact of life, milk it and live with it.

Sure, man is prone to gawking. But does it mean that as a society, we should encourage it and cash in on it, especially when we know that it is a human weakness? Should we really be appealing to the dark undersides of human nature? Why not have Jerry Springer charity shows then?

I am all for creative methods of fund-raising. But sometimes, the means cannot justify its end, however noble the end is. If flag days, educating and more subtle means of fund-raising cannot raise enough funds (whatever enough means), then we just have to accept that this is the charitable limit of our society currently. To forcibly feed fodder to the unfortunate sensationalist side of society is not acceptable.

09 January 2006

Heart of Hardness

At last, some time to myself on this rainy day of leave for an overdue entry on King Kong and Conrad.

Before I watched King Kong, I had been told to bring Kleenex, and sunglasses too if I weren't watching the movie at night. Apparently, even big men sitting beside Ms T were sniffling away.

So when I did not cry at the movie, I was a little disturbed. Yes, my lachrymal gland worked some during the show, but those tears that welled up eventually did not fall. My frowning brow muscles were working much harder than my lachrymal gland. Is that a sign of cold-bloodedness? (The word that Ms T had incredulously blurted when I first told her Ms Y did not cry at the movie.)
»Read more...
I want to say it is stoicity instead. You know how when something whams you so hard and leaves a crater so deep that no more signal can be sent to the lachrymal gland? Stocity is the day-to-day version of this. Doesn't mean you don't feel anything, but some things in life have to be borne.

In this case, the truth is that King Kong was not a crying movie for me. I liked it (save for the Jurassic Park deja vu and utterly GROTESQUE scenes of giant cockroaches and slugs!), but the movie evoked in me much more frustration and despair, compared to sadness.

Many thoughts and ideas came up when watching it. Some were less frown-inducing. E.g. Is Ms Blond suffering from Stockholm syndrome? 人与兽之间的恋情是否终究注定失败的?(以此类推:难道就真的竹门对竹门,木门对木门不成?)But most of them brought about despair. What on earth have we done to this world - especially nature and natives? Why are we so fascinated with extermination rather than merciful co-existence? Why the determination to transplant a being that clearly does not belong to New York City? Just how much damage will we do for the sake of fame and wealth?

One of the most direct consequences of watching King Kong was that it got me to finally read Conrad's Heart of Darkness. I knew its anthropological significance and it has been on my KIV list for more than 5 years, but funnily enough, it took an ape movie to get me reading.

It was a much thinner book than I expected, which was a saving grace given this past crazy week at work. It was also expectedly politically incorrect, with references to improved specimens, white men appearing to natives like God... in short, the white man's burden.

Even so, there are admissions that perhaps the white men were not so different from those that they attempted to bring light to after all:

...They were conquerors, and for that you want only brute force - nothing to boast of, when you have it, since your strength is just an accident arising from the weakness of others... The conquest of the earth, which mostly means the taking it away from those who have a different complexion or slightly flatter noses than ourselves, is not a pretty thing when you look into it too much.

...We are accustomed to look upon the shackled form of a conquered monster, but there you could look at a thing monstrous and free. It was unearthly, and the men were - No, they were not inhuman. Well, you know, that was the worst of it - this suspicion of their not being inhuman. It would come slowly to one. They howled and leaped, and spun, and made horrid faces; but what thrilled you was just the thought of their humanity - like yours - the thought of your remote kinship with this wild and passionate uproar.

I also liked the discussion of death towards the end:

...I have wrestled with death. It is the most unexciting contest you can imagine. It takes place in an impalpable greyness, with nothing underfoot, with nothing around, without spectators, without clamour, without glory, without the great desire of victory, without the great fear of defeat, in a sickly atmosphere of tepid scepticism, without much belief in your own right, and still less in that of your adversary. If such is the form of ultimate wisdom, then life is a greater riddle than some of us think it to be... Perhaps all the wisdom, and all truth, and all sincerity, are just compressed into that inappreciable moment of time in which we step over the threshold of the invisible.

The book is strangely introspective and inclusive, so much so that you are willing to forgive it for its politically incorrectness. Reading it reminded me of the solitude that one feels when travelling alone. I didn't think that was possible in a crowded commuter train.

05 January 2006

First photos of 2006 - darn, in the office

Okay, 2006 is crazily ramping up at work without my consent...

Here I am, trying to smile at 10 pm in the office -


But in fact I am feeling like this :'(

29 December 2005

525,600 minutes

The year finally coming to an end in 24 hours, I decided to rework my very first blog entry which was on the remembrances of past years. Two months ago when I started it, I had taken the wrong bus and was walking the kilometre back home in the humid Singapore night when it suddenly hit me: I am 25 - and the clock is ticking away.

At that time, in a panicky attempt to account to myself how my years have passed, I decided to signpost my recent years as follows:

clock2005 - (Let's get past this first)
2004 - Year of ALOT of travel
2003 - Year of finally learning the cello
2002 - Year of Yale and tango
2001 - Year of Japan
2000 - Year of the Freshman 10

A few weeks later, I watched Rent and one of the songs really caught my fancy - lo and behold, I was actually able to hear most of the lyrics in spite of my notorious deafness (!):
525,600 minutes - how do you measure, measure a year? In daylights, in sunsets, in midnights, in cups of coffee. In inches, in miles, in laughter, in strife. In 525,600 minutes - how do you measure a year in the life?
It is funny, but I have never thought it in that way. But now that the song has mentioned it, I do know of someone whose life would, on one count at least, be measured in cups of coffee. And for me, miles would be a very apt measure for 2004 indeed. (Although I must admit that I am still trying to figure out whose / how / why life would be measured in inches... Hmm.)

I found out later that the song is named a rather run-of-the-mill »"Seasons of Love". What a shame; I had liked the song for its introduction, i.e. non-love part actually.

So, that leaves me with the miles / minutes / coffee / laughter / tears of 2005.

Well, honestly, many of those 525,600 minutes in 2005 have been chaotic. But since the year has been winding down nicely for me these few months (other than recent crazy dreams of flying crabs and python and ape!), I feel like I should give it more credit than term it the Year of Chaos. (Yah, it was chaotic, but not to the extent I am counting down every minute for the year to be over.) Perhaps it is just because 2005 is still too upclose and personal; more distance and hindsight should help give it a better signpost soon. I will fill in the blank here when it comes to me.

Onwards to 2006 instead. It looks good for now - more travel and Gigi's wedding in Hong Kong - so I am looking forward to it. January trips to Pakistan and Laos are already scheduled, so look out for more entries to this traveblogue. Incidentally, I went to donate my blood platelets today and the poor nurse had to look up ALL the countries I have been to in the past 4 years. (It was compulsory to declare and I had already tried to shorten by summarizing them as "US, Europe, ASEAN, Central America".) I cleared the hurdle today - almost didn't because of Cambodia - but will have to check for Laos and Pakistan for malaria clearance the next time I donate. Humbug.

28 December 2005

Have you discovered Mozilla extensions?

Okay, I guess the first question should be: Have you discovered Mozilla Firefox? If the people around me or my site counter stats are anything to go by, I guess not :( Which is unfortunate, because I seriously have not looked back since switching to Firefox. (It first came installed on my work laptop.)

If you haven't experienced the joys of »tabbed browsing yet, please do. It is the single biggest reason to switch. And here is the deal - you can customize Firefox with »Firefox extensions to make surfing exactly the way you want it. Want a translate function in your right-click? A really compact menu bar so that you can put your bookmark toolbar in the same row as your menu bar? A nifty search bar that combines Google, Google Images, Dictionary.com, Wikipedia, WebMd, IMDB, Lonely Planet etc.. all in a single dropdown menu? (This is the excellent Firefox search bar in the latest version. I used to use the google toolbar but discovered there was no more need for it especially since I discovered the Search WP extension which meant I didn't to have to lose the highlighting function in the google toolbar.)

I accidentally came across »Download.com's favourite extensions yesterday, hence the motivation to post my favourite extensions too...

Have I won you over from IE yet? :)

The economics of socks

I had planned to only share this with the other economist nerd I know, but considering the economics of socks is a prerequsite to adulthood, I thought I'd share it.

img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c387/jenellim/FT_article.jpg" alt="" border="0" />

20 December 2005

Introspective lucidity | Drunken debauchery

The week that has just passed was an eventful one. The first half rolled along nicely with a nice intellectual slant: proof-reading archaelogy papers, then receiving an absolutely delightful Christmas present - a fountain pen. It was the perfect gift because I had been lamenting the loss of my old one since August and had been longing to feel the solid weight and flow of a good pen in my hand again. I haven't been able to stop fingering it since Thursday and must confess that I have finding excuses to write things down...

From there, life shifted two gears forward.

Thursday evening 6.50 pm. I suddenly heard that my Sec 3/4 form teacher had died. We went to the funeral. It was brain cancer - aggressive one. The saving grace was that she wasn't in pain. But she lost her memory, movement, reflexes... one by one. Such a cruel way, for an intellectual. Going to the funeral was sobering. It is a lucid remainder once again that life is so fragile and that one is so blessed to be healthy, standing, breathing, thinking, every single day.

The introspective lucidity seeped into Friday where there was a big Christmas party at work. (Is it possible to be introspectively lucid while placed in drunken debauchery at the same time?) Wine flowed freely from noon onwards, and by 5 pm, I was in rather high spirits. In fact, I was so high-spirited that I offered to wash the wine glasses but not realizing that another high-spirited person had spilt wine / water on the floor. I slipped and fell, remember seeing people sweeping alot of broken glass bits away, but not remembering how I got back to my desk to awake only at 7 pm and noticing a small scar on my palm...

Most of Saturday was spent on music theory lessons, replenishing fluids and waiting in the stupendous queue for »Ministry of Sound. The only other time I remembered such single-minded waiting was at the Time Square New Year Eve's party - and alright, I guess that was worse. 100 minutes later, we were finally inside and I felt such a sense of triumph at my patience that I had to take a coaster as a keepsake:
We didn't stay too late as Friday's party had worn us out but I liked MOS. Its many rooms of music reminded me of ID Bar in Nagoya, but MOS' decor was more interesting what with the heavenly Pure room, pyschelic retro room and angsty R&B room. We apparently missed the chill-out tunnel but I guess it just means a good excuse to return sometime soon.

Sunday... Sunday evening's open-air guzheng concert at the heritage site of Fengshan Temple off Mohd Sultan Road warrants a surrealist posting all of its own. Akan datang.

04 December 2005

22 November 2005

Jojo at her most maternal

My best friend just sent me photos that she took of me in Europe - this is definitely Jojo at her most maternal.
I can't stop gushing about this big-eye baby girl from Nice.  She's French mixed African, Chinese and I think Portuguese. Ooo-la-la.

(Sorry if you can't see my small Chinese eyes beside hers smiley)

07 November 2005

Reading

2005

  • Isla Negra | Neruda
  • 20 Love Poems and a Song of Despair | Neruda
  • Portrait in Sepia | Allende
  • Daughters of Fortune | Allende
  • Fragrance of the Guava | Garcia Marquez
  • The Fountainhead | Rand
  • Her Husband: Ted Hughes and Slyvia Plath | Middlebrook
  • Shanghai Baby | Wei

2004


  • No One Writes to the Colonel | Garcia Marquez
  • The Old Man Who Read Love Stories | Sepulveda
  • The Hours | Cunningham
  • Beauty and Sadness | Kawabata
  • House of Sleeping Beauties | Kawabata
  • Master of Go | Kawabata
  • Temple of the Golden Pavillion | Mishima
  • Quicksand | Tanizaki
  • South of the Border, West of the Sun | Murakami


25 October 2005

Faces of Phnom Penh

PHNOM PENH - When I heard we were visiting a silk village as part of the Mekong River tour organized by our very hospitable Cambodian colleagues, I had thought it would be quite commercialized a la Thailand. But it turned out to be a bona fide village - with chickens, mud roads, and very very poor.

There was a 6-year-old girl (along with 20 other women and girls) who followed us the whole way to the local roofless temple, trying to sell me a scarf for US$1. I didn't buy initially because I was in no particular need for scarfs and most of all, because I was so plagued by dilemma - I didn't know who to buy from, which woman's / girl's need was greatest, who to help.

The women and girls followed us as we walked through the village. We soon came to the roofless temple. As I closed my eyes in prayers, it dawned on me that I could not just pray and do nothing. I looked down at the mud road. Two pairs of feet struck me. They belonged to a shoeless 6-year-old girl and a clubfooted pregnant woman. I bought a scarf from each of them.

Heartbreaking as Phnom Penh was, it still held alot of charm for me. I found an abundance of grounds-up social projects there - a free reading library run by a French woman, postcards at the Russian markets painted by disabled artists, a wonderful garden restaurant (*excellent* food and extremely value-for-money) called Bodhi Tree that hired youths at risk...

It will be nice to do something like that one day.

柬埔寨的 Singapour

傍晚| 柬埔寨,无名村

村庄里有许多妇女小孩,手中捧着许多丝巾。丝巾颜色多姿多彩,妇女小孩的表情却是一致的。淡淡的笑容里,带着几许哀求。

“买吧、买吧。”

“买吧、买吧。”

就这样一路哀求。他们也不缠得很厉害,就是一路跟着你。有位怀孕的妇女左脚不太方便,却一路跟着,脸上笑容不减。腼腆的柬埔寨人、微笑真实羞涩得叫人难忘。

妇女很热情,英语也不错,相当诚恳地请我到她家。

“你饿了吗?” -- 我笑笑地摇头。

“我家还有货。” -- 我又笑笑地摇头。

“你是从哪里来的?” -- “Singapore”。

“啊,Singapour。”

发音和三年前的法语一样,就是那一样的 sung, 一样的 pour... ...

10 October 2005

亲爱的巴黎铁塔

亲爱的巴黎铁塔。
晚上好。
你就这样屹立在巴黎中心,
慢慢闪着你的长灯。

もう一年経ってしまった。
あなたはこの場所を見て、
気持ちは何もありませんか。

きれいなパリー、もう一度さよなら。
10 OCT 2005, PARIS

08 October 2005

On the Dali Museum

FIGUERES - Just came out of the Dali Museum and am on the way back to Barcelona now.

What an EXCELLENT museum!

My head spun for a while after I came out because Dali is so unfathomably crazy.

No, not crazy in a derogatory way, but in the sense of unfathomable wildness or fantasy. How does he think of these ideas? How is it possible to live aside a person as wild as him? (Recall that he has a wife.) I reached the pinnacle of such sentiments when I was in the Mae West room looking at the converging mirror in mid-air. How, I question myself, can anyone think of as wild creations as these?

As I walked on, I thought to myself that every single person should have a Dali experience, just so to understand the spectrum of the human imagination. With nostril fireplace, lips sofa, corncob hair, mirrors reflecting illusion after illusion, intertemporal paintings, Dali has ensured that the reality-illusion duality is blurred to a maximum. One is left gasping as one walks through the various rooms. It was a substantial collection of his works (I am sorely reminded of the cheaterbug Picasso Museum in Barcelona) that was presented in a manner that reflected Dali's fauvist quintessence. I spent a lot of time in the courtyard and room 3 because there was so much to see once you look at the details. Yet the number of details was not overwhelming the way Sagrada Familia was. It was just sufficient to occupy the mind, to incite thoughts and contemplation.

What Dali works did I like?

(I am tempted to look through the photos I have taken, but I recall the words of my literature and photography class professor - that by recording, snapping away, one renders the memory of the experience to only what one has photographed. Having the intention to write a piece on the obsession of recording, I should not let myself fall into the same trap.)

I should think that the piece I liked most was Gala Looking at the Sea. I liked the colours and the somewhat Cubist feel of it. I also liked Othello Dreaming of Venice - I intend for this to be front cover of my future Venice album. There were other pieces I enjoyed, although not liked per se. The satirical interpretation of Matisse's La Danse was funny. So was The Bed and Two Bedside Tables Ferociously Attacking the Violoncello. I like how his titles are so humorously long. Like the one - 6 Reflections of Something that Looks Like 3 Chinese Pretending to be Lenin When Looked 2 Metres Away, and Like the Crown of a Lion When Viewed 6 Metres Away. Is this too prescriptive? I don't think so. I like to know what the artist intended for while allowing myself room for interpretation. I don't fully buy the Derrida idea that the author can have intentions or meanings that even he himself may not know about. (This would mean that the work attains a life of its own once commenced? If so, then like the conception of life, we have to ask: at what point does it attain its own soul?)

The silhouette of the Pyrennes is now faintly in the horizon. As the Catalunya Express charges forward, the arcs of blue in the train cabin morphs into waves and swirls into the blueness of the Pyrennes at twilight. The journey is coming to an end. The orange-vermillion of the setting sun asks me -

Are you ready for reality?

At this point, I feel like Gail Wynand - I could go either way. I could continue travelling for another 2 weeks, 2 months?

Or I am equally at peace going back to the humdrum of my city state.

More photos of glorious Spain »here.

29 September 2005

Can life get any better than this...?

NICE - The sky is finally brightening up and casting a good light on this notebook as I write. The little fibres of my white angora sweater are illuminated, creating a soft focus. I am warm and snug in my sweater and scarf, waiting forthe next train. Such is life as should be experienced by a 25-year-old...

Priceless indeed are certain experiences. To curl up on the grass in Paris and wake up to Tour Eiffel befeore your eyes. To lay on the grass of Epernay, still slightly inebriated from a 1999 Moet vintage, looking up at the azure cloudless skies marked only by contrails of planes flown by. To sit out at night in a 44-euro hotel balcony right in the centre of Plaza Massena, listening to familiar tunes from a classical guitarist busking on the plaza, eating turgid Nicoise olives freshly bought from market this morning... Can life honestly get any better than this?

27 September 2005

A day of drunken happiness in a half-state of sobriety

EPERNAY - A day of drunken happiness in a half-state of sobriety around the charming little town of Epernay. I love being trained through the rolling hills, seeing the cottages, the farms, the blue skies...

It is my view that all painters should be made to go for day in French countryside to expose them to the possibilities of the palette - how can one paint when one does not have an idea of how blue blue can be?

I have since discovered that blue can actually be as blue as the skies of Epernay on 27th September 2005 at 2.30 pm when one awakes from a nap on the green green grass... How come no one told me this before my nascent painting talents vanished? :{

26 September 2005

Light and pleasure in Cour Puget

PARIS - At last, a time to breathe and a time to recap. And in a beautiful courtyard like this, on a beautiful day.

How nostalgic it is to be retracing one's steps in the Louvre through the marvellous Italian collection of sculptures again. This time, I have also made it through the French sculptures. What a pleasure it is to see and admire sculpture. I don't think one can ever get tired of it. To see the luminosity of the marble, the statuesqueness of the arm in the air, the leg outstretched, the fluidity of the motion frozen in the second for eternity by the sculptor...

Marble. I like marble on sculptures best. It is as if the graceful flow of fabric is all the more accentuated by the heaviness of marble. And of course, that luminosity. Cupid and Psyche is in a class of its own when it comes to luminosity.



One has to admit that the Italian sculptures are still the most vivid of all. Their fluidity is simply unrivalled. The Greeks are detailed, but somehow too static. It is not their fault - I would imagine it takes that long for style to evolve and the Italians have the benefit of history. (Do we speak of the weight of history or the lightness of it? Does history inspire or does history constrain?)

Light, light, light. Incredible how much difference light makes to a place.

Sitting in the Puget courtyard amidst the light passing through the roofs of the Louvre. Pleasure, pleasure, pleasure.

Such are the small pleasures of life. To be surrounded by sculptures, to feel the air, the space interjected by the awe of their presence. Sculptures are born for big open spaces. Like this in Cour Puget and Cour Marly. Or like that in the jardin of Musee Rodin. How else to feel the magnitude?

It is no wonder that France should reserve these two courtyards for their French sculptures. What better way to showcase them? The sunlight streaming through the roof, the vast space between the trapezoidal roof and the top of the sculpture, birds flying, eyes intently looking up.

This moment. Priceless.