Showing posts with label Southeast Asia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Southeast Asia. Show all posts

02 November 2010

Cambodia hospitality

[»slideshow embedded]

When I mentioned that I was going to Siem Reap to attend a conference, an ex-colleague related the story of how he was personally thanked by the Cambodian trade minister as a junior customs officer many years ago. He and his mate had gone to conduct something like a 3-day capacity building course for the Cambodian Customs. Almost at the end of the training, their counterpart came over to whisper to them that their minister would like to meet the both of them to thank them personally. So there they were, in a big ministerial office, face to face with Mr Cham Prasit.

Mr Cham Prasit is of course now the Deputy Prime Minister. But humility, like hospitality, is seldom forgotten.

A motorbike holding the hand of a bicycle


Together we glide.

Khmer woman. Siem Reap

18 March 2009

People who live in glass houses shouldn't throw stones


There is some truth to most of »your article, but to conclude with “only losers kill themselves” was highly presumptuous. You and I, through a looking glass, have no way of knowing the intensity of one’s desolation, and therefore what brings one over the edge of the cliff.

Besides, in life, there is some room for 宁为玉碎,不为瓦全。


Camera-phone series #9.

01 December 2007

9 Days in the Kingdom by 55 Great Photographers

Saw a very nice photography exhibition in Bangkok in honour of the King's 80th birthday (a really big thing there):

Bangkok photo exhibition

It was partly sponsored by Canon and at the exit, there was a fun sign which said:

Thank you for coming to the exhibition.
And now you have to buy a camera!

Loving Bangkok (and not for the shopping)

This time, I really like Bangkok. Apart from a familiarity which allowed a leisurely revisiting of places without maps (a la Paris), it was also helped by a conscious choice to abandon the monolithic and fanatical Asian take to Bangkok (i.e. shopping) and instead focus on a different interpretation of the city.

It was an infinitely more superior experience (even as it was predominantly a solitary one since most people are not interested in this experiment). A cocktail on the the sky-high, open-air bar of Banyan Tree was a real treat after a day of inane corporate-speak, as was the extremely value-for-money pasta at Zanotti and SUPERB Thai food at Baan Khanita. Instead of shuffling straight to Siam square blindly, I noticed how I could stroll out of a Coach store and two seconds later, be prostrating in front of the harmoniously co-existing Erawan shrine.

Then there are the polite and gentle ways of the Thais, the cars that don't assassinate you on the streets, the perfectly tropical weather which was neither humid nor to the point of perspiration, and most of all, the night scenes of working class Thailand that rivals Shanghai's and makes me want to buy a dSLR straight away. (I am getting very impatient at how crappy my Canon Powershot is with night shots.)

Absence often makes me forget, but Southeast Asia is gorgeous.



Post-script: Alright, I'll admit that I don't dig the new Bangkok airport much. I feel like I should like the minimalist steel and concrete structure, but the truth is that I don't. Did anyone also mention to the architects that metal chairs are an extremely bad idea in (cold) airports? I thought I could get some shut-eye while my flight was delayed, but it was just impossible to fall asleep even though I was lying flat across three chairs - they were sucking heat from me like vampires. So at a glorious 1 am, I had to go on a grumpy hunt of non-metal chairs in the airport. I finally found a cushioned backseat of a parked golf buggy to curl up in the end.

01 May 2006

An honorary archaeology degree for the hermit crab

SIBU ISLAND, MALAYSIA - Who would have thought that a creature as small as this...

small hermit crab
...has the ability to dig so much and create sand patterns as mysterious as these?

sand pattern 3___ sand pattern 2

sand pattern 1 ___ sand pattern 4

May all archaeologists be equally enthusiastic diggers like the hermit crab! :D

The sun, the sea and my sandy feet

An idyllic Labour Day weekend on Sibu Island...

red rock sky

one cloud sky

my sandy feet

10 March 2006

Say hello to my frog prince!

Crrroak
JAKARTA - I first saw my frog prince in the Vientiane airport two months ago but was too cheapo to pay US$8 for it. Since then I have been thinking about it and trying to look for it in vain.

At last, I found it in Jakarta this time. Kudos to our Indonesian colleague Ms D!

P.S. My frog prince crrroaks when you roll the wooden stick over the ridges on its back! And depending whether you use the fatter or thinner end of the stick, my frog prince changes from a young frog to an old frog. I was so taken in by it because when I was in Japan, there was a frog who was stuck in the pipe of my dorm and it would croak all night. The croaks of this wooden frog prince really reminded me of that pipe frog :)

09 March 2006

Jakarta undercurrents

This is my 3rd time to Jakarta but probably the first time that I enjoyed it. For the past two times, Jakarta was the boring, chaotic city which I didn’t look forward to because, in my own words, “There is nothing to do in Jakarta”.

To a very large extent, this is true. When I thought of Jakarta before this trip, only a crepe restaurant, a fusion restaurant (Koi) and the amazingly affordable hair treatment stood out in my mind. There are no world-class museums, no orchestras, no Arc de Triomphe, no Bangkok shopping finds. (Okay, there are some cheap Polo and bra buys, but those are about it.) Jakarta is not a walking city at all and the bad traffic inspires lethargy on even the most enthusiastic of visitors.

But in its own ways, Jakarta is alive. Only that it does not reveal itself easily to outsiders the way Paris or Rome does; it takes an insider to link you up to the undercurrents of Jakarta.

Perhaps it is significant that this time that I was in Jakarta, I had the fortune to be taken around by two local Indonesians. Feisty Ms D had driven us around yesterday, and we were fascinated by the modern designs* of bars and restaurants in Kemang amidst the impossible Jakarta traffic. Then today, Ms W brought us to F Bar and introduced us to the excellent band, One Vision. Although they were mainly doing covers, the quality of their voices was very impressive. Somehow, noted Ms W, Indonesians are endowed with deep mellow voices the way blacks are. She also commented that the Indonesia Idol is a lot better than the Singapore Idol. Gyrating to the tunes by One Vision, Ms M and I couldn’t help but agree.

One hour into the good music, I started to think that perhaps, famous bands are more the product of good packaging than anything else. Which is to say that Indonesian bands like One Vision could well have the potential to be as famous as Black Eye Pea. They are already a natural; I really liked how they mingled and chatted with the audience afterwards without any airs. With the proper packaging – good PR management etc, they are surely ready to break out into the world with hits of their own. By then, Ms D’s Japanese girl friends would no longer have to beg her to send them CDs of Indonesian bands.

Live music. At the end of the night, I realized that that is the part I relished the most about Jakarta – it is just so easy to find live music in Jakarta. (My hotel even has a pianist-singer in the afternoon.)

Where labour is cheap, music abounds. That unfortunately is the harsh truth, isn’t it?


* Mr L would say that the unfortunate thing about Jakarta is that the design is great but more often than not, the food does not match up at all. I had to agree for the Italian restaurant that Mr L brought us to the other time.

Sensory overload

JAKARTA - I looove the sensation but I always feel quite guilty when I ask for this:

“Hair spa and foot reflesi please.”

Jakarta is probably the only place where for US$6, you can have twenty fingers massaging you at the same time – ten for your head and ten for your feet. The first time I had this hour-long treat, I must admit I was very confused by the sensory overload. Just where should I be feeling? Ooo ooo, the head, the head. That feels good. One second later, the foot... The foot feels so good. And ahh, I can feel the stress being taken out of my skull now. Then ouch! That’s an accupoint there on my toe!

The net result of this sensory overload is that I have to shut my eyes in the hour or so I am at the hair salon. Both in comfort and in the attempt to shut off any other channel of sensory inputs to my overloaded brain.

Sometimes I wonder if Karl Marx is turning in his grave to know that two proletariats are serving one capitalist exploiter of labour. And more so, if he knows that the proletariats are probably earning only 10% of the miniscule sum paid by the capitalist…

27 January 2006

Snapshots of Vientiane

Was working too hard in Vientiane to look around or write this time :( Which was a shame because the weather was delightful (in the high teens and low twenties). It would have been nice to sip tea at a charming outdoor cafe and write...

Ms T: Yes, there are plenty of monks in Vientiane!

25 October 2005

Faces of Phnom Penh

PHNOM PENH - When I heard we were visiting a silk village as part of the Mekong River tour organized by our very hospitable Cambodian colleagues, I had thought it would be quite commercialized a la Thailand. But it turned out to be a bona fide village - with chickens, mud roads, and very very poor.

There was a 6-year-old girl (along with 20 other women and girls) who followed us the whole way to the local roofless temple, trying to sell me a scarf for US$1. I didn't buy initially because I was in no particular need for scarfs and most of all, because I was so plagued by dilemma - I didn't know who to buy from, which woman's / girl's need was greatest, who to help.

The women and girls followed us as we walked through the village. We soon came to the roofless temple. As I closed my eyes in prayers, it dawned on me that I could not just pray and do nothing. I looked down at the mud road. Two pairs of feet struck me. They belonged to a shoeless 6-year-old girl and a clubfooted pregnant woman. I bought a scarf from each of them.

Heartbreaking as Phnom Penh was, it still held alot of charm for me. I found an abundance of grounds-up social projects there - a free reading library run by a French woman, postcards at the Russian markets painted by disabled artists, a wonderful garden restaurant (*excellent* food and extremely value-for-money) called Bodhi Tree that hired youths at risk...

It will be nice to do something like that one day.

柬埔寨的 Singapour

傍晚| 柬埔寨,无名村

村庄里有许多妇女小孩,手中捧着许多丝巾。丝巾颜色多姿多彩,妇女小孩的表情却是一致的。淡淡的笑容里,带着几许哀求。

“买吧、买吧。”

“买吧、买吧。”

就这样一路哀求。他们也不缠得很厉害,就是一路跟着你。有位怀孕的妇女左脚不太方便,却一路跟着,脸上笑容不减。腼腆的柬埔寨人、微笑真实羞涩得叫人难忘。

妇女很热情,英语也不错,相当诚恳地请我到她家。

“你饿了吗?” -- 我笑笑地摇头。

“我家还有货。” -- 我又笑笑地摇头。

“你是从哪里来的?” -- “Singapore”。

“啊,Singapour。”

发音和三年前的法语一样,就是那一样的 sung, 一样的 pour... ...

31 March 2005

For the pleasure of my nostalgia, how long do people have to swat flies on dusty roads?

YOGYAKARTA, Melia Purosani Hotel lounge - First impression of Yogyakarta: the buildings and cityscape quite charming. The aged red-tile roofs reminiscent of my old primary school during childhood days in the '80s. The five-times-a-day prayers over the public speaker indicative of a place less fast-paced and efficient than Singapore. The rows of sleeping feet sticking out from trishaws comical. The barefotted man reading newspaper intently by the side of the road nostalgic.

But the pleasure of my nostalgia - to what extent is it dependent on a standstill, a non-modernization of a people's way of life? For the pleasure of my nostalgia, how long do people have to swat flies on dusty roads? How long do they have to put up with cramped living conditions, take loans from exorbitant local moneylenders in order to maintain my charming little pushcart of mie soto...?

Ramayana dance

YOGYAKARTA - The sequined multitude of colours. The little monkeys. The measured steps. The exquisite gestures. The precise execution of the foot cloth flicks. The ascension to heaven. The flames. The painted faces. The economical affixation of the white monkey's tail to the headgear. The angle of the fingers, the waist, the upheld bow. The catching of the arrows. The arm band distinguishing the two brothers. The incesen offering to the four corners of the stage. The aroma. The sonorous music emitting from the orchestra stand. The curt rejection of the devil king.

So why does Princess Sinta need to prove her purity? And why is a long-haired, pot-bellied man mountain not instead a long-haired pregnant woman mountain...?

30 March 2005

Borobodur Buddhas

YOGYAKARTA - The majesty of ancient monuments is always awe-inspiring. If Borobodur were still mired in the jungle, it would probably feel like Tikal. (The colours are similar.) But with the clearing and landscaped lawn, it feels almost too sanitized a la Chichen Itza.

Going up the steps of Borobodur is supposed to symbolize the attainment of nirvana from samsara. The exquisite carvings on the lower realms were detailed and full of sensual women in their natural, beautiful nude state. It is hard to decided which I prefer - aspiring to the peaceful zen state at the pinnacle, or remaining in thee samsarically beautiful but also samsarically painful lower realms.

__



In the end, I climbed straight on. I am not sure if I did so out of curiosity or a desire to be closer to the Buddhas. The pinnacle was surreally beautiful. So many stupas, with so many shy Buddhas, awaiting, hiding.

One could only stand in awe and pray. I prayed to Buddha to watch over this land he oversees, to inspire us all to enlightenment.

Circumabulating the stupa in the rain, the raindrops fell pitter-patter on my 40-cents rented umbrella. "I", the rain, the umbrella - we are all one.

Turning around, I noticed a lightning rod running down the main stupa. Did they not trust the many Buddhas to protect the very abode they resided in? But the many headless Buddhas provided the stark answer. Man is greedy, the world is harsh.

Is Buddha omnipotent? Or at the least omnipotent enough to protect himself? Or maybe he is too compassionate, just yielding to the needs and wishes of man. What is a head anyway if it can bring some warm food to the looter's dinning table?

The rain turned into a torrent. Water gushing, jeans wet.

What a mighty shower of blessing.